What souvenirs should I buy in Budapest?

The Christmas markets are full of handmade crafts and good for a first browse. For gifts that do not look like they came off a conveyor belt, these three places are our favourites.

• Paloma Artspace. A hidden courtyard between Ferenciek tere and Astoria (Kossuth Lajos utca 14–16), where more than 100 independent Hungarian designers share small studio-shops. You will find ceramics, jewellery, fashion, illustrations and art prints. The designers often run the shops themselves, so you can talk to the person who made your gift. It is open on weekdays and Saturday, but usually closed on Sundays, and opening hours vary a little between studios.
• Gozsdu Weekend Market. In the covered passage between Király utca and Dob utca, in the middle of the nightlife district. Look for handmade crafts, vintage clothing, local art and artisan food. Days and hours change with the season, so check before you plan a morning around it. It is close to Mama Goulash and Meshuga, so it combines well with lunch.
• Szimpla Sunday Market. On Sunday mornings the famous ruin bar becomes a market with Hungarian producers in the courtyard. It is more food than craft, a calm and family-friendly way to see Szimpla in daylight.

Food gifts. A jar of Hungarian paprika, local honey or pálinka packs well and makes a lovely small present. You can buy paprika powder in a supermarket too, but make sure it is real Hungarian. Liquids over 100 ml cannot go in hand luggage, so keep bottles for your checked bag.

How to plan it. On a Sunday, Szimpla and Gozsdu are about ten minutes apart on foot, and Paloma is usually closed. On any other day, start at Paloma, then stroll on to Vörösmarty tér for a coffee and the Christmas market. Auguszt’s downtown café is at the same address as Paloma, so you can also finish there with coffee and cake.

Pay. Bring some cash for market stalls, although many accept cards.